KARPO, Sweden
WITH Labor Day behind them, 
            Karin and Steve Trygg are preparing to close their summer house. The 
            trek home to Manhattan, though, involves more than fighting traffic 
            on the Long Island Expressway. For them, it means an eight-hour 
            flight from Stockholm to New York, a trip they have taken so many 
            times that Mr. Trygg calls the plane the trans-Atlantic bus.
            Born in Sweden, Mr. Trygg, 56, and his wife, 57, have lived in 
            the United States since 1982, when he came to New York to open a 
            branch of a Stockholm advertising agency, Anderson & Lembke. 
            They raised three children in Darien, Conn., and now live in an 
            ultramodern brownstone duplex on the Upper West Side. But when 
            summer rolls around, instead of vacationing on Nantucket or in the 
            Hamptons, the Tryggs head for their country house on Skarpo, a 
            rustic Swedish island about 4,000 miles away.
            They did try to find a place a little closer to their year-round 
            home, often visiting Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard. The New 
            England coast "looks similar to the coastal areas of Sweden," Mr. 
            Trygg said. But somehow the simple clapboard cottage they had in 
            mind never materialized. So they settled for their own floating 
            island, a 54-foot motorboat with three cabins. They were as 
            surprised as anyone when in the summer of 1993, while visiting 
            friends and relatives near Stockholm, they impulsively decided to 
            buy a cluster of small wooden waterfront cottages on Skarpo, one of 
            a chain of 25,000 islands that stretches into the Baltic Sea.
            Like Nantucket, Skarpo was a fishing village until 100 years ago, 
            when ferries from Stockholm transformed it into a popular summer 
            community for city dwellers in the late 1800's. Here the Tryggs 
            found what they had been looking for in New England: a red-painted 
            wood cottage near the shore (the former laundry of a larger house), 
            and six minuscule outbuildings, including an outhouse. "Karin was in 
            love with the little wood house, and I was in love with the big rock 
            on the water's edge  and the view," said Mr. Trygg, who is now a 
            consultant. They bought the property for about $150,000.
            The couple had come back to the land of their birth, but was it 
            home? "Being first-generation immigrants to the States, I think 
            Karin and I will never at heart become true Americans," he said. "On 
            the other hand, we have been away from Sweden for over 20 years, so 
            we no longer feel like Swedes, either. I guess we're foreigners in 
            both the U.S. and Sweden, and prefer to be Swedish foreigners in 
            America than to be American foreigners in Sweden. Call this hybrid 
            nationality if you like."
            In the beginning, the Tryggs were content to turn the little red 
            cottage into a retreat with one bedroom, a living room, a kitchen 
            and a bathroom. Mrs. Trygg said it was the summer house she always 
            longed for, close enough to the water for comfortable sleep on warm 
            summer nights and early morning dips in the chilly Baltic.
            But for her husband, the cottage was not enough. It did not have 
            sufficient space for visiting family members and their own three 
            children, Tobias, now 31, an art director who lives in Darien; 
            Jenny, 27, who lives in Stockholm; and Charlie, 22, a college 
            student in the United States. And Mr. Trygg wanted to be involved in 
            an architectural project. "It was my dream to build a real house," 
            he said. In 1997, he got his wish when a two-acre property next door 
            became available. The property's centerpiece was an old wood house 
            built in the National Romantic style of the early 1900's, a form of 
            art nouveau, and much of its decorative exterior detailing had 
            Viking-inspired motifs. But indoors, what might seem charming to 
            Swedes was less appealing to a couple who had spent decades in the 
            United States.
            The Tryggs wanted amenities not usually found in old Swedish 
            country houses, most of which have been lovingly restored but not 
            extensively modernized or even plumbed. They didn't miss paved roads 
            or cheek-by-jowl neighbors, but they felt a need for a heated garage 
            for two cars; spacious bathrooms with showers and tubs; and a 
            kitchen with a center island and a ceiling-hung pot rack. So after 
            buying the second parcel for about $225,000, the Tryggs embarked on 
            a major renovation project with Bjorn Greitz, an architect who lives 
            and works on the neighboring island of Vaxholm.
            "It was a challenge to work on a multicultural project," Mr. 
            Greitz said. "I knew a lot about traditional Swedish houses but I 
            have never lived or worked in America."
            The renovation cost $800,000  more than twice the price of the 
            two properties  and it blends the best of modern American 
            conveniences with folksy Swedish details.
            "The bathrooms were important," Mr. Greitz said. "It was funny 
            because there wasn't enough height in one of the bathrooms for an 
            American shower, so we installed a low one with a tile easy chair so 
            you can sit and soap your toes."
            To retain the house's period looks, the Tryggs replicated the 
            detailing on the exterior of an addition that expanded the living 
            area to 2,465 square feet, twice its original size. Those details, 
            comparable to Victorian gingerbread fretwork in America, were also 
            adapted for the kitchen cabinetry and the living room bookshelves. 
            But the doors and windows are finished with the square-cornered wood 
            moldings common to New England rather than the mitered style typical 
            of Sweden.
            They joke that the house's dιcor is "Carl Larsson meets Ralph 
            Lauren." Most of the antique and vintage Swedish country furniture 
            in the house is from Mrs. Trygg's family; she herself wove all the 
            rugs and blankets. The old copper cooking pots are from island yard 
            sales, and Mr. Trygg bought seven tall ceramic tile stoves to heat 
            the house from a local man whose barn was full of them. The pot rack 
            in the kitchen, however, came from farther afield: Williams-Sonoma. "We 
            schlepped it on the plane with us from New York," Mr. Trygg 
said.
            An important part of the architectural overhaul was the 
            construction of a dining pavilion along a boardwalk that leads from 
            the house, high up in the woods, to the dock below, where their 
            motorboat, complete with an American tuna tower, is tied up.
            "In Swedish, a building like this would be called a pleasure 
            house, a building that you would entertain in, eat and drink," Mr. 
            Trygg said. The new dining pavilion is an oval-shaped wood building, 
            painted red and yellow, both traditional colors in this part of the 
            country. But borrowing from the summer houses of Nantucket, it has a 
            large wood plank deck and American lounge chairs. Once the building 
            was finished, the Tryggs realized that they had not thought about 
            how food, drink and kitchenware would be transported from and to the 
            main house. The solution was simple: a secondhand baby carriage 
            purchased on the island.
            Another space that blends New England with Skarpo is the new 
            tower room in the main house. Tower rooms, a typical feature of 
            Swedish seaside homes, are like American widow's walks, only with 
            windows on all sides. Historically they were used as lookouts to 
            check the weather and sea conditions, as well as to watch passing 
            ships.
            With that past in mind, Mr. Greitz and Mr. Trygg decided to make 
            it seem as much like a boat as possible. For structural reasons it 
            had to have a double floor; so as not to waste space and to continue 
            the nautical effect, they dropped a cooler into the floor for beers. 
            But it was the tower staircase that presented the biggest design 
            conflict. The architect wanted to design something very plain; Mr. 
            Trygg resisted.
            "One day Steve called from the ferry," Mr. Greitz said. "He said, 
            `Here it is! The yellow metal railing on the ferry. This is it.' " 
            So now ship-spotters and cloud-checkers climb to the tower room 
            using stairs modeled after those on Swedish ferries.
            The Tryggs also often carried fittings they liked from the United 
            States in their carry-on luggage  bathroom faucets, for instance. 
            Mrs. Trygg cradled a ceramic bathroom sink on her lap on one flight. 
            But nearly everything else about the renovation, which took 12 
            months to complete, was local, from the materials to the laborers. 
            "It's my philosophy to use local workmen," Mr. Greitz said. "They 
            are not always the most qualified, but they have the interest." 
            Long-distance construction is not for everyone, but Mr. Trygg was 
            not too concerned. "I wasn't anxious even though I wanted to be 
            involved in every decision. I was there every six weeks for five 
            days," he said. At other times he, the architect and the contractor 
            communicated by phone and fax. Money was wired automatically each 
            week so workers could be paid on Fridays. Only once did the money 
            not arrive as scheduled  there had been a two-day delay  resulting 
            in a note in the mail from the contractor that said, "Luke 
            14:28-30." When Mr. Trygg looked up the Bible reference, he found an 
            admonishment. "For which of you, intending to build a tower, sitteth 
            not down first, and counteth the cost, whether he have sufficient to 
            finish it? Lest haply, after he has laid the foundation, and is not 
            able to finish it, all that behold it begin to mock him, saying, 
            This man began to build, and was not able to finish."
            Otherwise everything went smoothly. Mr. Trygg has only one 
            regret: that he didn't install central air-conditioning for the 
            occasional heat wave. 
            "It's an unknown feature in Swedish homes," he said, "but one I 
            surely miss on hot summer days."